Our sweetness up into one ball,

And tear our pleasures with rough strife

Thorough the iron gates of life:

Thus, though we cannot make our sun

Stand still, yet we will make him run.

 

                    Andrew Marvell, To His Coy Mistress

Well, I've been bitten by the bug. Don't understand why the whole ITP doesn't empty out when a good swell hits. During my three years there, I had a longboard (a loaner from Wati Taylor) and a 7’6’’, which I’d keep in my ocean-view office. When the break looked good I’d stroll down to the point for a session. Doesn’t get much better than that.

The swell map from one particularly glorious day is to the left. I’ve since graduated to Maui. Kanaha and Ho’okipa rock!